Is ASA Filament Food Safe? No - Safer Alternatives Inside
Our top picks, compared:
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eSUN PLA+ Natural 1kg
- Print temp
- 210-230°C
- Diameter
- 1.75mm
- Bed temp
- 50-60°C
- Enclosure
- Not needed
- Type
- N/A
- Use
- N/A
- Compatible with
- N/A
- Max temp
- N/A
(paid link)
Smooth-On XTC-3D Coating
- Print temp
- N/A
- Diameter
- N/A
- Bed temp
- N/A
- Enclosure
- N/A
- Type
- Epoxy coating
- Use
- Seals layer lines
- Compatible with
- N/A
- Max temp
- N/A
(paid link)
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend
- Print temp
- N/A
- Diameter
- N/A
- Bed temp
- N/A
- Enclosure
- N/A
- Type
- N/A
- Use
- N/A
- Compatible with
- CR-10, Ender 3
- Max temp
- 300°C+
(paid link)
What Actually Is ASA?
ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) is one of my favourite filaments for anything that’s going to live outside. Garden camera mounts, allotment plant markers, car dashboard phone holders - if it needs to handle UV and rain without falling apart, ASA is brilliant. I printed a bird feeder bracket in ASA two years ago and it still looks brand new.
But can you eat off it? No. Absolutely not.
Is ASA Safe for Food Contact?
No - ASA is not food safe. I get asked this surprisingly often, usually by someone who’s printed a cookie cutter or a cup and then had second thoughts. Here’s why you should stick to decorative and functional uses:
- Chemical additives: ASA is packed with UV stabilisers and other additives that aren’t approved for food contact. Migration testing for 3D-printed ASA specifically isn’t something manufacturers publish, but the resin itself isn’t food-grade, so there’s no basis to treat it as safe
- Styrene content: Like its cousin ABS, ASA contains styrene, which the IARC classifies as probably carcinogenic to humans (Group 2A). That classification is about styrene exposure generally, not proof of how much (if any) migrates out of a printed ASA object, but it’s still a reason to keep it away from food
- Dyes and pigments: Coloured ASA filaments contain additional chemicals that aren’t food-grade
- Layer lines: Even if the material itself were safe (it’s not), FDM-printed objects have microscopic gaps between layers that can harbour bacteria and are hard to clean properly. The UK Food Standards Agency has said evidence on 3D-printed food-contact items generally is still limited
A mate of mine printed an ASA bowl for his dog’s water. Even for pets, I’d say that’s a bad idea.
ASA vs Other Filaments for Food Safety
| Filament | Food Safe? | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| ASA | No | Outdoor/UV-resistant parts |
| ABS | No | Functional prototypes |
| PLA (natural) | Conditionally | Single-use food contact |
| PETG | Conditionally | Reusable food containers |
| PP (Polypropylene) | Conditionally | Food storage containers |
“Conditionally” means the base resin is commonly used in food-contact products off the shelf, not that a home-printed object made from it is automatically safe. Layer lines and printer hygiene affect every material here. The UK Food Standards Agency’s own position is that evidence specific to 3D-printed food-contact objects is still limited, so treat any of these as a lower-risk choice rather than a certified one, and skip ASA entirely for anything touching food or drink.
How to 3D Print Food-Safe Items
Want to make something that’ll actually touch food? Here’s how I’d do it:
- Choose the right material - natural (undyed) PLA or PETG. Not ASA, not ABS, not that fancy silk PLA you bought on Amazon
- Swap your nozzle - stainless steel, not brass. Standard brass nozzles contain lead (around 3%), and while the amount that transfers is tiny, why risk it?
- Print with thick layers - reduces the gaps between layers where bacteria love to hide
- Consider a surface coating - a sealant like XTC-3D can fill layer lines, but it’s sold as a general-purpose finish, not a food-contact product. It reduces one risk factor; it doesn’t certify the print as food-safe
- Hand wash only - 3D printed items will warp in a dishwasher. Trust me, I’ve learned this the hard way
- When in doubt, don’t - for anything that will hold liquid, be microwaved, or see repeated food contact, use a proper food-storage product instead of a home-printed one
Safe Handling Tips for ASA
ASA isn’t food safe, but it’s a proper job for outdoor and functional prints. If you’re printing with children, our guide to the best 3D printers for kids covers safe material choices in more detail. When printing with ASA:
- Use an enclosed printer with good ventilation - ASA kicks out fumes that’ll give you a headache if you’re not careful. My printer lives in the garage for exactly this reason. Curious about running costs? See how much electricity a 3D printer uses
- Print at 240-260°C nozzle temperature
- Use a heated bed at 100-110°C - anything lower and you’ll get warping
- Store filament in a dry box to prevent moisture absorption. Wet ASA prints like rubbish - bubbly, rough, and weak
So, Should You Use ASA for Food?
Not a chance. ASA is a fantastic filament - I genuinely rate it for outdoor and functional parts, and it’s a popular choice for 3D printing projects that need weather resistance. But it should never go anywhere near food or drink.
For anything that needs to touch food, natural PLA, PETG, or polypropylene are the lower-risk starting materials, and a surface coating can help seal layer lines. None of that adds up to a certified food-safe result on a home FDM printer, so for regular or heavy food contact, buy a purpose-made food-storage product instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is ASA filament food safe?
No. ASA contains chemical additives and UV stabilisers that are not approved for food contact. Use food-safe alternatives like natural PLA or PETG instead.
What is the safest 3D printing filament for food?
Natural (undyed) PLA is generally considered the safest option, though the printed object's layer lines can harbour bacteria. Food-safe coatings are recommended.
Can you make ASA food safe with a coating?
No coating is documented as approved for food contact on 3D-printed ASA. A sealant like XTC-3D is sold as a surface finish, not a food-contact product, and the underlying ASA remains unsuitable for food. For food applications, start with a material intended for food contact rather than trying to coat around the problem.